Guru Nanak Dev the founder of Sikhism spent most of his life in the Punjab. Except for his 4 long travels which took him to all places of the known world at that time from Mecca and Baghdad to Dacca and Ceylon, Nanak spent all his life in West Punjab which is now part of Pakistan.  Many miracles are attributed to him while he lived in the Punjab and these places where he showed that he was a prophet have gurdwaras  built to commemorate those events. The entire West Punjab is dotted with Sikh gurdwaras   and though some have decayed as most Sikhs left for  India after 1947, the most holy of them are preserved and are in relatively good condition.

The Pakistan government has set up an organisation called the Pakistan Sikh Gurdwara Prabandhak Committee  (PSGPC) which looks after the Sikh holy  places and gurudwaras. The chairman is appointed by the Pakistan government, but members are Sikhs who are settled in Pakistan.  The PSGPC gets funds from the Pakistan government and also donations from the Sikh diaspora in UK, Canada and USA and uses the money  for the up keep of these holy places.

I may further mention that the Pakistan constitution preamble and Article 20 guarantee freedom of worship to all minorities. In practice there may be aberrations at some places, but generally  a large Hindu, Sikh, Shia and Christian minority live in Pakistan. Within the ambit of the constitution Sikh holy places are well looked after and periodical celebrations of Sikh festivals is conducted and tourists from all over the world visit Pakistan.

I had a great desire to visit the holy Sikh places in pakistan. In particular the two most famous places which have gurdwaras at Panja Sahib ( close to Peshawar) and Dera Baba Nanak ( where Guru Nanak spent the last 15 years of his life). I got my chance two years back and visited both these holy places. The gurdwaras are very well maintained and annual gurupurab festivals on all Sikh holy days are regularly conducted. It was an elevating experience and one wonders why partition took place. Punjab was always one entity and dividing it was like cutting the umbilical cod of two twins. This is however history and I must add that I was very well received and feted in Pakistan. I was in Pakistan for almost a week  and for me its a  visit to cherish and remember.


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