Kaduvakali – When tigers play Onam
Onam, the harvest festival of Kerala is associated with many sports and games. What’s a celebration without any fun or entertainment! Of all Onam sports, boat race and tiger play are most popular. You may wonder if tigers of Kerala play Onam. Yes, some tigers may play Onam in their own style, running and dancing among crowds giving them a 100% entertainment package. After all, Onam is a festival to all animals too, belonging to Kerala! But these tigers are a bit different. They are people disguised themselves as tigers and leopards to celebrate the festival in their own way. ‘Kaduva’ means tiger and ‘Puli’ means leopard and ‘kali’ means play. In this colourful festival, where people celebrate with colourful pookkalams and wonderful feast, people are applying colours on their body to make this event more colourful. These colourful tigers are always accompanied by hunters with gun too. Through this article, I am giving a brief note of this funny, entertaining and vibrant game played during Onam season and its significance.
A few words about its origin
Though it’s played all over Kerala, Thrissur is its motherland. This town, earlier known as Thrissuva peroor is known as the cultural capital of Kerala – the land of poorams and festivals and thousands of elephants. Earlier, before independence Thrissur was under the direct rule of Kochi Thampuran and among all the kings, Shakthan Thampuran was most famous. It’s believed that he introduced this folk dance 200 years back to bring some more excitement to the celebration. He wanted something related to wild life. So, tigers and leopards were chosen to show wild life participation. Later Muslim soldiers of British regime began to practise it as a form of enjoyment and popularized it by adding special steps and a particular body language. It’s those soldiers who introduced hunters in this play and later it came to be known as 'Pulikkettikali' and it was accepted well by local people. Gradually it became popular in other parts of the state too. Usually, after the grand feast of Thiruvonam, these well dressed tigers enter main towns and villages and dance around pookkalams. People disguised as hunters usually accompany them.
Make up is the real task
Though it looks funny and interesting, it’s not at all an easy task to make up tigers and leopards. At first, tigers have to remove hair from their body. Then first coat of paint is done. It may take four to five hours to completely dry this paint. Then second coat is given enhancing the first one, adding some extra imaginations and some more designs. So, the entire process may take six to seven hours minimum. Yes, great patience is needed to bring their hard work to reality. Any colours according to imaginations can be used. But they must suit a tiger well. A lot of artists are invited to paint tigers for the procession at Thrissur. This folk art has got a wide attention due to its colour combinations too. In addition to varnish and enamel, tempera powder is also used. Tempera is a permanent fast-drying painting medium used for painting pictures from first century though now used only rarely.
Changes over the years
Earlier, people used to paint their faces also. Now, they are very often using masks of tigers and painting tigers on their stomach. Obviously, big belled persons look so handsome if they make up as tigers. Now, readymade tongue, teeth, beard, mustache etc are used. Since over the years, dancing tigers are gaining more popularity, to enhance their dances, tiny bells are tied around their waist. Also, from ultra slim to fat tigers, demands keep changing with change of time.
Cultural capital is famous for Pulikali
Though art and cultural items are more displayed in the state capital, cultural capital is famous for pulikali. It’s conducted on fourth Onam, i.e. just two days after Thiruvonam. Chathayam day is the end of all Onam celebrations. Tigers reign the main town in the afternoon, but their make up starts in the early morning itself. It consists of four directions, each group representing a particular place known as ‘desam’. Each group is known as a ‘sangham’ coming from all the four directions and they assemble together at Swaraj round of Vadakkumnatha Siva temple, the ground where ‘Pooram of Poorams – Thrissur Pooram’ is conducted. When they reach Ganapathi temple just before Vadakkumnathan, each ‘puli’ gives a coconut before proceeding to the temple ground. Every year, Thrissur Municipal Corporation gives each troupe a grand of 30,000 rupees to meet with the expenses. Yet, contestants need to collect more money for their expensive paints. Best team and best tiger will be awarded for its wonderful performance. Mayor's Trophy and cash prize of Rs. 25,000 is awarded for the best team. Nowadays youth is coming forward to participate in this funny sport.
Tigers painted in bright white, black, yellow, red, green etc, dance along with traditional music jerking their bells. Thakil and udukku – ancient musical instruments of Kerala are used during this occasion. Thakil is a barrel shaped instrument & udukku can be said to be a country drum. Only these two instruments are normally used. But nowadays trends are changing. ‘Chendamelam’ of musical instrument chenda also accompany tigers to give a little more refreshment. Hunters with guns play with tigers to charm the spectators. Tigers hunting the goats and hunters catching them are wonderfully displayed. When tigers enter the main streets, people just welcome them with claps and they will be delighted by their performances.
Kuttipuli
Sometimes, small kids disguised themselves as tigers also join such celebrations. Kutti means child and hence these young tigers can also entertain a massive crowd in their own ways. Very often, big tigers take their young ones too. It's them passed to the next generation as a gift, to follow for years to come.
Kaduvakali – 2012
Kaduvakali of Thrissur was conducted on September 1st, Sunday. It was fourth Onam – the final day of celebrations. Everyone feared rain will play the real game, as seasons changed during this Onam with heavy rainfalls. But rain God blessed Thrissur people with a sunny day full of enjoyment. This year, six teams participated in the sport. Each group started from its region exactly at 3 pm and they reached Swaraj ground at 4.30 pm. 41 tigers participated in each team, accompanied by instruments. Also two tabloids were presented. For best team, best tiger, best instruments known as ‘Pulikott’ and even for good discipline prizes were distributed. Teams belonged to places (desam) Mailippaadam, Poonkunnam, Viyyoor, Veliyannoor, West Fort and Poonthol. On Friday, as a part of tiger play proclamations, a ceremony known as ‘Pulivaal Ezhunnallipp’ was conducted in every desam. In addition to tiger play, each desam displayed its items as exhibition known as ‘Chamayapradarsanam’. Chamayam means make up items used by tigers during the festival.
It’s a bit expensive also, if you want to add more imaginations to your tigers. Each tiger may cost up to 10,000 or more. Many such ‘belly dancers’ with big stomachs may get good sponsors. Earlier, persons with good fitness had high demand. Yes, time is changing its tastes every moment. Senior most tiger is Thekoott Chathunni who is 72 years now. He participated as tiger successively for 56 years till now.
Also, after the onam feast, when people are engaged in some fun, Kaduvakali is one of those preferences. Still now, I remember my childhood days, when people disguised themselves as tigers used to play around Atham, just before it's removed in Thiruvonam evening. Sometimes it’s a tradition handed over to next generation. Sometimes it’s just a sport for entertainment. Some people even see it as a competition. Many people are there who either participate or give colours to participants for more than 50 years. But the truth is that, if those men with black, yellow and white strips are missing, Onam is incomplete.
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